On May 21st, I arrived in Varanasi for the first time. That same day, Prime Minister Narendra Modi was scheduled to perform aarti at the renowned Sankat Mochan Hanuman temple. Due to safety precautions, half of the roads were closed off. Our lodging was located at Gola Galli, which was a short distance from Kashi Vishwanath Temple, Gate No. 4.
This area was densely populated with shops and large houses whose doors opened directly onto the streets. Numerous temples filled the crowded streets, including the Lakshmi Narayan temple erected by the Bhosale kings of Nagpur. Some narrow alleys only allowed for single-file pedestrian traffic.
The following day, I engaged in conversations with locals, starting with morning tea in the square to hear their political perspectives. Despite Modi's emphasis on Digital India, cash transactions were prevalent among small traders, rickshaw pullers, and luggage carriers. The absence of digital payment options left me disheartened. During a tea break at Bhairav Sardar's sweets shop, political discussions ensued, addressing concerns about rising inflation despite government ration promises.
Strolling through a market after parting ways with Sardar, I queried several shopkeepers about Modi's impact on Varanasi. While many credited him for the Vishwanath Corridor facilitating temple access, others expressed dissatisfaction with the lack of progress in drainage system maintenance.
Amidst varied opinions, one individual highlighted Modi's global reputation but criticized the inefficiency of local subordinates. Subsequent interactions with locals revealed a range of sentiments towards Modi, Congress, and development initiatives. A young shop owner expressed disillusionment with the current administration and hinted at potential voting shifts based on future political performances.
Moreover, concerns were raised about the changing landscape of Kashi due to developmental projects leading to the loss of traditional gathering spots like Birla Bhawan. Critics lamented the focus on grand projects over addressing basic civic issues such as sanitation and river pollution. The narrative highlighted a disconnect between official narratives of progress and the lived realities of Varanasi residents.
Despite positive perceptions of projects like the Vishwanath Corridor, underlying grievances persisted among the populace regarding job opportunities and environmental neglect, particularly evident in the contamination of the Ganges.
The report encapsulated diverse political opinions in Varanasi, reflecting on the perceptions of PM Modi, Congress, and the local development landscape. While the Vishwanath Corridor symbolized progress for many, it also underscored the challenges and unmet expectations faced by residents, emphasizing the need for holistic development strategies beyond infrastructure projects.